Nova SS Information, Chevy Nova SS, Muscle Cars of the 1960's and 1970's, Chevy II and Nova

Replacing Coil Springs

Information posted here is gathered from the internet and credit goes to those
helpful persons for sharing their experience and knowledge on this subject.
Disclaimer: Use of the below methods is at your own risk.

Not that difficult to use a spring compressor to reinstall or remove springs with no weight in the car. You just need to use the top mount, bushing and nut through the upper shock mount hole (the one you turn to compress it) and the hooks through the bottom of the spring. As you turn it will pull the spring up into the pocket and hold it there. Then move the lower arm into place and you are there.

You just have to pull off the top set of hooks on the spring compressor. So hooks on bottom only, upper part through the shock mount hole. That side wont move so your pulling the spring up and compressing from the bottom which will allow you to get the lower arm on.

This is beside the video, more for the how to reinstall with no weight / engine in the car. I always see the posts that you need people to stand on the crossmember or lots of weight. Pretty simple with just the compressor.

Remove the sliding set of hooks. Drop the threaded rod down the shock opening.

Also note the threaded hooks are of differing length.. this accounts for the staggered heights of the coil where the hook grabs it.

You must insert the hooks from the opening in the lower control arm, sideways, up into the coil. Then orient the hooks, and lift the center portion to mate with the threaded rod.
Drop down the threaded rod, with a stack of large washers. You must use a number of washers to prevent tool and frame damage. I like to grease them up and then use Silicone Spray lubricant as I work. DO NOT use an air tool on this.
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And here, I'm demonstrating exactly what NOT to do, note the long hook is pointed forward and on the lowest portion of the threaded rod.

You should orient the hooks approximately 90 degrees to the long axis of the car. Also, move the threaded hooks UP about 1/2 way on the threaded rod.

You see, as I was trying to unload the spring, I ran out of threaded rod and had to loosen everything up, relocate the hooks, and try again. Yippee!! ...NOT

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To install the springs, use a tool like is shown. Put the rod through the shock hole and screw on the bottom hooks just enough to cover the threads. Use a rubber band around the hooks to keep them together. Push the spring up through the hooks until it's in the upper spring pocket and turn the spring until it stops. When you install the hooks on the coil, you want them facing the spindle. Only compress the spring enough to clear the lower spring pocket. Put a floor jack under the lower control arm and jack it up slightly. Use a pry bar to seat the spring in the lower control arm. Once the spring is seated, jack the car up with the jack under the lower control arm. Crank down on the spring compresser and install the spindle and tighten the ball joint nuts.
When you compress the spring, it won't be stait up and down. You will need to use the pry bar to get the spring to seat in the lower control arm pocket. I thread the bottom hooks on to the rod and use a rubber band to keep the hooks closed, then put the spring in place, turn it until it stops and then install the bottom hooks on the spring. The hooks should be facing the spindle and crossmember so it pulls the spring in when you tighten it.

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ANOTHER METHOD:
I've tried the one half of the spring compressor gag...didn't like it and it didn't work well for me. Not to mention that if the frame is painted/coated you tend to mar the finish no mater how many washers and how much grease you use. Plus who has the patience to fish those lose hooks up inside the spring and then re-thread the darn shaft every time you do this. I've done it a bunch since discarding the compressor routine...here is my methodology:

1. Jack up the side your going to work on higher than is necessary to remove the wheel and place a jack stand under the frame.

2. Remove the jack and remove the wheel.

3. place the floor jack under the lower control arm, closer to/under the ball joint is always better. you may want to remove the zerk fitting first to prevent it breaking off. Also, if total disassembly is your goal now is a good time to remove the anti-sway bar end links...sometimes it helps even if you are not doing a total dismantle as they can bind.

4. loop a chain through the front axle of the floor jack and then up and over the frame as close to or through the A-arm cross shaft as possible. Some experimentation with angle and positions will be necessary. use a nut, bolt and washers to fasten to ends of the chain together. If the frame is "ugly" then don't worry about protecting it from the chain. If your frame is "pretty" then cut an old bicycle inner tube in half to make a sleeve for the chain...work it over the chain. I did the inner tube thing eight years ago and haven't had to redo it since. The chain is mostly for safety on the removal but essential for install.

5. Raise up the jack to begin compressing the suspension stop before you lift the car fromthe jack stand. Now is a good time to remove the tie rod end it you are going that far or if it will be in the way.

6. loosen but do not remove the nuts on the upper and lower ball joints. leave them both threaded on the studs about 1/2 to 2/3 their depth (or a full if your cautious).

7. I like to start with the lower ball joint and use a pickle fork to break the spindle loose from the ball joint. It will pop under the pressure of the spring but be stopped from fully unloading by the nut. This also releaves pressure form the spring. now you can back the jack off some to unload more of the pressure. Next use the fork to pop the spindle loose from the upper ball joint.

8. Now you can back off the jack some more and begin removing the lower ball joint stud nuts. Most of the stored energy in the spring is gone as it is no longer at full compression. When the nut comes off there will be a little jump. If you left he upper ball joint nut on then the spindle will be hanging there waiting for you to remove it (if you did it the other way then you will find that gravity works an the spindle assembly will want to fall on you, your jack or the floor depending on the situation).

9. You shoudl be able to lowe the jack the rest of the way after removing the chain. If you set it up right you may be able to do so with out removing the chain. If you are just swapping springs or spindles then don't unhook...just pop the new parts in and reverse the process. The chain keeps the frame from moving away from you as the spring starts to compress.